Clutch slave cylinder

Spongy pedal feel, gears that crunch even with the clutch flat, or fluid pooling near the bell housing usually mean the clutch slave cylinder has had it. Sourcing the right replacement is the awkward part. Slave cylinders vary by mounting design, bore size, and gearbox setup, and most listings are buried across half a dozen specialist sites that don't talk to each other, leaving you to bounce between tabs and start the same search over again.Parthunt24 draws used clutch slave cylinder listings together from marketplaces like eBay, Ovoko, RicambiPro, Opisto, Proxyparts, Ecooparts, Autoparts-24, Totalparts. Compare 89 options on price, condition, and fitment, and head to the marketplace once you've identified the right unit for your car.

A clutch slave cylinder is a hydraulic component in manual transmission vehicles that, when activated by the master cylinder, uses hydraulic fluid pressure to move a rod and operate the clutch release fork. It's typically mounted on the transmission or inside the bell housing. Picking the right slave cylinder means matching the cylinder type, bore size, and mounting design. On Parthunt24, narrow the search by OEM code or engine code, then filter by Category, Manufacturer, Series, Model, Modification, and Price. Each listing leads to the marketplace where it's hosted, where you'll find the seller's full details and the order button. Make sure you check out these details on the seller’s page before you buy:

• Vehicle compatibility: Match make, model, year, engine, and OEM part number exactly.
• Cylinder type: Confirm external slave cylinder vs concentric slave cylinder (CSC) inside the bell housing.
• Transmission compatibility: Match the gearbox and clutch system design.
• Bore diameter: Correct internal diameter — affects clutch engagement and pedal feel.
• Mounting points: Bolt pattern and positioning on the transmission housing.
• Hydraulic line connection: Port type, thread size, and orientation.
• Push rod design, external type: Correct length and fit with the clutch fork.
• Integrated bearing, CSC: Confirm fit if the slave cylinder includes a release bearing.
• Fluid compatibility: Required brake/clutch fluid, usually DOT spec.
• Condition, if used/rebuilt: Inspect for leaks, worn seals, corrosion, and smooth piston movement.

Fitment's settled. Now the listing has to earn the order. Here are some things to review:

• Photos: Multiple angles of the body, ports, push rod, and any integrated bearing.
• Seller reputation: Ratings, reviews, and trading history.
• Compatibility info: Part numbers, applications, or cross-references.
• Included components: Cylinder only, or with seals, push rod, or release bearing?
• Condition: Used, tested, or rebuilt? Look for fluid weeping or pitting.
• Testing: Pressure-tested or sold as-seen?
• Warranty and returns: A clear policy if it doesn't fit.
• Shipping: Padded packaging to protect ports and seals.
• Documentation: Part numbers, test results, or proof of origin.

When the listing checks out, place your order on the marketplace and the seller will get the part on its way.

A used clutch slave cylinder usually runs €20 to €80. A reconditioned one tends to sit between €40 and €140, and OEM concentric slave cylinders (CSC) for premium vehicles can climb past €200. Vehicle, brand, and condition account for most of the variation. You can find a clutch slave cylinder on Parthunt24 from {lowest_price}. Some things that can affect the clutch slave cylinder price include:

• Used vs reconditioned: Used pulls cost less. Reconditioned units come tested and often warrantied.
• External vs concentric: Concentric slave cylinders (CSC) cost more than basic external units.
• Brand: OEM names like LuK, Sachs, and FTE sit at the top of the range.
• Vehicle rarity: Common engines are cheaper; specialist applications cost more.
• Condition: Bench-tested cylinders with no seal weeping command a premium.

A €30 difference between similar listings can hide a much bigger gap in condition or warranty, and the comparison view on Parthunt24 makes those differences clear.

A worn slave cylinder rarely fails alone. Other parts in the hydraulic system often go too. That’s why it’s important to get a clear idea of the problem before you start swapping things about. These parts are worth checking:

• Clutch master cylinder: Often fails alongside the slave. Worth replacing both at the same time.
• Fluid reservoir: Cracks or contamination cause pressure loss that mimics slave cylinder failure.
• Transmission bell housing: Inspect for leaks and damage when the slave cylinder is out.
• Push rod: A worn or bent push rod causes engagement issues blamed on the cylinder.
• Clutch disc: Worn discs cause slipping that can look like a hydraulic problem.
• Release bearing: On CSC units, integrated bearings wear with the cylinder itself.
• Hydraulic lines: Perished or kinked lines drop pressure and cause a spongy pedal feel.
• Flywheel: Worth inspecting whenever the gearbox is coming out for a CSC swap.

If the slave cylinder is at fault, browse Parthunt24 for a fitting replacement and buy directly from the marketplace.

A clutch slave cylinder is a small part with big consequences when fitted wrong, and the right one for your car shouldn't take half an afternoon to find. Parthunt24 brings every compatible cylinder into one comparable view, sortable by price, fitment, or condition, with the cheapest seller for your vehicle one click away. Match the bore size, confirm whether you need an external or concentric unit, and check the prices side by side without bouncing between sites. Compare clutch slave cylinder price options today and pick up a great value clutch slave cylinder for your car on Parthunt24.