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Crankshaft position sensor
9643695780
Crankshaft position sensor – 9643695780
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Crankshaft position sensor – 8200885209
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9664387380
Crankshaft position sensor – 9664387380
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9091905012
Crankshaft position sensor – 9091905012
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7806782
Crankshaft position sensor – 7806782
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31303282
Crankshaft position sensor – 31303282
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A2761530128
Crankshaft position sensor – A2761530128
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2243560
Crankshaft position sensor – 2243560
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038907319E
Crankshaft position sensor – 038907319E
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034905381A
Crankshaft position sensor – 034905381A
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10234006
Crankshaft position sensor – 10234006
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30713485
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9637466980
Crankshaft position sensor – 9637466980
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036906433A
Crankshaft position sensor – 036906433A
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J5T32171
Crankshaft position sensor – J5T32171
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036906433D
Crankshaft position sensor – 036906433D
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9091905069
Crankshaft position sensor – 9091905069
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9639999880
Crankshaft position sensor – 9639999880
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1275789
Crankshaft position sensor – 1275789
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30637803
Crankshaft position sensor – 30637803
€5.00
What does the Crankshaft Position Sensor do?
A crankshaft position sensor monitors the crankshaft's position and rotational speed in a combustion engine to help control fuel injection and ignition timing. Common signs of failure include a check engine light, rough idling, stalling, or difficulty starting.It reads a toothed reluctor ring as the crank turns and feeds that signal to the ECU, which uses it to fire the injectors and the spark at exactly the right instant. You'll find it low on the engine, at the crank pulley, the flywheel, or bolted into the block, down in the heat, oil mist, and road grime that wear these sensors out over time. Lose the signal and the engine no longer knows when to fire, which is why a dying CKP sensor is one of the more stranding faults around.
Symptoms of a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor
These sensors often play up before they quit for good, and the trouble tends to flare as the engine warms. A crankshaft position sensor that drops out at speed can kill the engine on the move, so an intermittent fault is best chased down before it becomes a no-start on the hard shoulder. Look for:
- A no-start that just cranks: With no crank signal, there's no spark or fuel, so the engine spins but won't catch.
- Cutting out mid-drive: The signal vanishes for a moment, stalls the engine dead.
- Trouble starting when hot: Fine from cold, then awkward once the sensor heats up.
- A lumpy idle or misfire: A ragged signal throws the timing off and the engine runs rough.
- A lit check engine light: Typically logging a crank-signal or timing fault.
- Flat spots under acceleration: Power stumbling as the timing loses its reference point.
How to pick the right Crankshaft Position Sensor for your car?
A crank sensor has to suit your exact engine, because the signal it generates must be the one your ECU is built to read. The engine code does the heavy lifting here, since sensors differ widely even within one model range, and an inductive (passive) sensor can't stand in for a Hall-effect (active) one. Punch in the OEM number first, then make sure the mounting position, the connector, and the cable length all match what you're taking off. Put your make and model into Parthunt24 and the list drops to sensors cut for your engine. Follow any result through and it lands you on the marketplace selling it, where the seller's write-up and the buy button live together.
- Vehicle make, model, and year: Sensors vary widely, even within the same model range.
- Engine code: The most important compatibility factor.
- OEM part number: The most reliable way to ensure correct fitment.
- Sensor type: Check whether the vehicle uses an inductive passive sensor or an active Hall-effect sensor.
- Mounting position: Confirm whether the sensor is fitted at the flywheel, crank pulley, or engine block.
- Connector type: The electrical plug must match the vehicle’s wiring harness.
- Cable length: Must suit the required routing and mounting position.
- Signal configuration: Different ECU systems require specific signal patterns.
- Transmission type: Manual and automatic versions may use different sensors.
- Condition: Inspect for oil contamination, cracks, and wiring damage.
What to check before buying a Crankshaft Position Sensor
With the listing in front of you, the connector and cable are the first things to check, since the heat and oil down by the engine are what usually finish these sensors off. Oil soaked into the plug or a cracked, brittle cable is a sign the sensor has cooked, so those parts want a clear close-up rather than a single shot of the tip.
- Photos: The sensor tip, the cable along its length, the connector, and the mounting flange.
- Seller reputation: Their rating, the spread of feedback, and how long they've sold parts.
- Compatibility: OEM number and engine code checked against yours.
- Included components: Sensor on its own, or with the mounting bolt and a connector pigtail?
- Condition: Oil staining, a cracked body, a perished or repaired cable, corroded pins.
- Testing: Word that the sensor was working on the donor engine when it came out.
- Warranty and returns: A stated returns path if the sensor turns out dead.
- Shipping: The cable coiled loose and the tip guarded so nothing gets knocked.
- Documentation: The donor engine's history and confirmation of a clean removal.
How much does a Crankshaft Position Sensor cost?
A crankshaft position sensor's price turns on the engine, the brand, and whether it's a passive or active design. A used sensor for a common car costs around €8-€25, an OEM or active-type unit at €25-€70, and sensors for premium or recent engines cost beyond €110.Crankshaft position sensor prices on Parthunt24 begin at 5.00.What pushes one crankshaft position sensor above another comes down to:
- Sensor type: Active Hall-effect sensors usually cost more than passive inductive ones.
- Brand: OEM-made sensors sit above unbranded aftermarket units.
- Engine rarity: Sensors for common engines stay cheap; unusual engines cost more.
- Age of design: Sensors for current engines fetch more than long-discontinued ones.
- Condition: A clean, oil-free sensor with undamaged wiring takes the higher price.
Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor? Inspect these related components too
A crank-signal fault isn't always the sensor's doing, because the timing and starting system leans on a clean signal and an intact reluctor ring. A cracked reluctor ring or a tired battery can throw the very same symptoms as a dead crank sensor, so rule these out before you condemn the sensor. Browse these on Parthunt24:
- Camshaft position sensor: Works in concert with the crank sensor and logs similar timing faults.
- Crankshaft: Inspect the reluctor ring on the crank for cracked or missing teeth.
- Wiring harness: Rubbed-through wiring to the sensor causes the same dropouts as a dead one.
- Battery: A weak battery brings on hard starting that gets pinned on the crank sensor.
- Alternator: Charging faults and electrical noise can muddy the sensor's signal.
- Camshaft timing: A slipped belt or chain shifts the reference the ECU is reading.
- ECU connectors: Corroded pins at the ECU produce the same on-off faults.
Crankshaft Position Sensors at unbeatable prices on Parthunt24
A crank sensor costs little but can leave you stuck on the verge, so it pays to land the right one first time rather than hunt it down across a dozen tabs. Parthunt24 draws the major used-parts marketplaces onto one page, so the type, condition, and price of every crankshaft position sensor sit in plain view, including Bosch units and other OEM-grade parts across European cars.Compare them all in one go and the cheapest working sensor is quick to spot. Compare prices, find the best deal, and buy a crankshaft position sensor for your car today on Parthunt24.